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hey guys so without wasting your time
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let's just go through the list of what
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I'm gonna be doing so you know what the
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fuck's happening cuz you know sorry for
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their no frills stuff here but I've got
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a lot of things to do throughout the day
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I'm editing a video to have effects
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going on it it's just not one of those
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things I want to do so let's just break
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it down let me make it right here first
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thing how to deal with the stylus okay
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hardware moves hard queer then the
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stylist software that's the Wacom
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drivers the lazy Nezumi I'm not really
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covering it I'm just talking about it so
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while you're watching if you're thinking
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I'm going to go in-depth on it
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it's too much to handle in one video
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anyway so you're just going to be made
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aware that there's other option options
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than what your just hardware software
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and this the drawing program and then
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decide sigh paint tool side just showing
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you where to go dig around to get your
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you know pressure pressure settings and
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how to get the best kind of results out
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of what you're doing so off to the first
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video which is how to destroy your own
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pen here I mean I forgot to even show
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you how to put it back together you'll
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figure it out pay attention to
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what you're doing guys don't just take
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something apart
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never knowing how to put it together you
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know better yeah this is how you do this
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maybe there's enough flour here soon 810
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the Sun that's too bright
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alright so there's a tip here just kind
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of pull that off you gotta take this
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sleeve off okay and then you gotta just
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really sometimes these are really tight
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on you gotta just really massage and you
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can see coming apart let me see if I can
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get a screwdriver for this
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all right so you just want to prior
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these usually just these aren't that
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hard to separate but some of them are
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you do not want to yank this you just
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want to work it back and forth okay so
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step one always hold this rear part down
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there's a spring in there and if you
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don't take care of keeping it face down
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the spring will come out thankfully this
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one's kind of stopped there it is see
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look at that oh jeez everything you know
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I don't ever never use these anyway so
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if you care about that spring being in
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there the right way leave this thing
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facing down you can see here there's a
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screw nut case yep no let's see if I can
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there you go
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this screw we can never remember if it's
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left or right basically when they make
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these they have to pull the screw in
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here to fit within the range of the
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electromagnetic what's it what's that
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makes the thing work if it's too much to
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the left no matter if it's being pressed
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or not it will always draw which is bad
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and if it's too much - did I say left if
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it's too much one way it will always
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draw even if it's not pressed and if
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it's too much the other way you have to
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press too hard and your range is too
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small so what you're trying to do is get
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it right before you have to actually do
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contact you want to have it just set so
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that as soon as it hits contact it
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starts registering it mmm but if you
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want it to have the best sensitivity it
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has to be right before they start
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drawing even without contact so this is
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a lot of annoying finicky little tiniest
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screw moving and you're doing this very
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small in it's very small amounts I think
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a quarter Pole will throw the whole
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thing out so you want to do this
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you know like that much
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I barely moved it but I did then you
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kind of draw any sewage the problem is
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of course in the without this leave it's
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hard to really get a feel for how it is
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how it is so often what I'll do is throw
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it in here
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Oh God when these things break you don't
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get it guys when these things break
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that's 80 bucks you gotta buy another
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one for 80 bucks they're ridiculously
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overpriced okay so basically you put it
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like this you draw with it you see where
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it's at and then you move the screw
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again
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till it's in the right spot believe it
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or not these don't come out of the
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factory properly set the person setting
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these isn't a artist they don't
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know what they're doing they're just
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getting it within a mathematical range
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or some sort of test range but it is not
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set for an artist it is just set to some
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sort of weird inconsistent default I
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want to say I said default but it's not
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default I have four styluses of an all
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set completely differently and they all
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behave differently and you will never be
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able to make two styluses behave exactly
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the same I don't know why I don't know
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if it's hardware I don't know if it's
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the pin but anyway so that's this part
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alright so next step you want to look at
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is your Wacom tablets I mean I don't
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like them
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alright you K so when you call up Wacom
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that's what they call themselves so if
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ever you're wondering what the can
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call themselves it's not Wacom its Wacom
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Wacom tablets like that's what they'll
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say when you call them on the phone so
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you know some companies don't know how
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to name themselves same same deal with a
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seuss basis anyway moving on when you're
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here you want to go to your grip pen
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setting and so here's how this works
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hey when you're here
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you want your pen to do two things
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you want it to fit your personal
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preference as far as pressure goes and
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you want to reduce the amount of
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artifacts created while drawing so one
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of the things that happens is shoe
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lacing which is pretty annoying and it's
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usually when does a lookout a blob a
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square blob at the tip of a drawing here
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maybe I can simulate it like this here
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there's it's hard to to show it anyway
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but you can't really see it because I've
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minimized it now you're gonna want to
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probably copy what I have here but
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that's wrong you don't do that what you
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do is you find where you're first of all
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let me just explain a few things that's
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going on here this is where the pen
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picks up okay if it's set to zero it
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picks up the microsecond there's any
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pressure on the tip I don't particularly
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want that because one of the things that
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happens is that the weight I put down at
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the beginning is actually heavier than
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the weight I really want about a
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microsecond later just because I'm maybe
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my hand is heavier just the way I draw
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but I can't actually use this I can
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brush I use this I expect a bit of
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weight to go down and then I get it in
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if you have it too close it just
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personally it means that I'll get a big
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blob than a small ball it'll look more
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like this all the time because I'm
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thinking this but this is what it ends
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up looking at a big block that's smaller
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than big again
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so if I cut it out then all I get is the
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set of the first initial dab down it
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gets ignored and then after that I get
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my own online next is your curve all
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this means is that if it's low like this
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it just spends more time waiting for the
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input to increase before draws and if
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it's high then it goes right at the fat
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really fast so this just allows you to
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give a little more pressure tweaking mmm
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so I put it here because I wanted to you
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forgive me a little more but still start
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drawing later the offside
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this last one is pretty important I
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particularly hate having to press all
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the way down on the maximum extent of my
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stylus when I'm drawing
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I don't want if I can have to draw
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really hard I want to be able to go
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about I'd love to be able to go half way
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I have enough control on my pen and
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enough stylus I have skill and stylus
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use over the years that I know how to
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use the the first 50% of the stylus
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pressure I the only really extents of
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what I want but really you can only go
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to what is this like thirty percent so
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that means that this ignores the last 30
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percent of pressure okay meaning you can
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get to the maximum size the brush cursor
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is at the 70 percent mark so if I want
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to go from tiny bit the thickest I can
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with a lot less pressure and a lot less
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heavy handedness which i think is
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actually more ideal than having to
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constantly press up and down really hard
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to get maximum right if I didn't want to
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get maximum pressure then I would make
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my brush smaller like you want to be
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able to use the full extent of your
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brush size and this is how I do that so
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this is how you tweak this if you want
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it to be really heavy and sloppy you do
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it like this and it will just draw a big
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fat lines which with little pressure
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pressure if you want it to be like the
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sharpest thing on the planet
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you just drag that down here you just
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tweak that until it draws exactly how
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you want it to draw
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but that's not I like it I like a writer
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right around here that's how I like it
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you know they get I guess then when I
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want it I get sick when I want it
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let me just tweak it until it feels
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right for you so another option here is
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lazy Nezumi I think there's another one
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there's a few other options okay some
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are free or cheap or whatever I don't
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know them offhand
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you know lazy Nezumi is a pay for thing
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it's kind of worth it there are issues
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with it it it it doesn't really play
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nice with sigh it has a lot of jokes
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when you start drawing too fast it
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starts choking it fights with size all
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interpolation brush softening stuff so
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it's tricky to use and it's a little
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complicated as you can see all this
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garbage here all those boobity gook so I
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can't do a whole review on this and
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there's a ton of documents on this I can
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if people really want me to but it's
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really it's kind of a what I call an
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atom bomb here for for something that's
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really simple and it really doesn't
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always do what it should be doing so I
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can't
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100% say this is the way you should do
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it it's good for something like
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Photoshop that's got zero interpolation
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which is kind of ridiculous but it has
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interpolation but it has this weird
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pseudo anyway it doesn't work great and
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you have zero control over it this kind
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of hijacks the helm lets you do more
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than what Photoshop thinks is the only
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option you should have for your input
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from your tablet device so you know use
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this if you gotta I have it because not
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every single program handles Wacom
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digitizer inputs very well and if you
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want to resolve that this is probably
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your best
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situation instead of relying on the
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software I'm not gonna cover Photoshop
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because I don't know if it's hidden or
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not or it's it keeps moving or I don't
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know if it exists photo shops ability to
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manage the stylus input is abysmal and
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always has been it's almost worse than
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the flash one so let's not even
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deal with that right now
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well we can deal with is if you use sigh
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I can show you a few things mostly that
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you can modify this in several spots one
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being right up here and now people
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here's first thing when you ask someone
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what stabilizer setting they use it's
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rigged
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it's a non information here's why eight
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on this machine I'm using right now is
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completely different than eight on the
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two other machines I have it basis but I
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think it's based on the computer cycle
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or whatever but there was a time fifteen
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was slow as hell but the computers keep
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getting faster and fifteen is too fast
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almost now to really interpret it
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properly the esses would be nicer if
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they didn't do this weird thing when you
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can lift up your pin and just stroke up
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really fast I'd love to have more slower
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options that's kind of where lazy Nezumi
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shows up so you've got that but there's
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more you can do here you've got
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additionally for each pin you have a few
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options you have you can set it by
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default the stabilizer which I've
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actually set a few that I always want to
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be really fast like hatching pens to two
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or three because then I don't I don't
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want have to change the stabilizer every
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time I want to do a hatch you can also
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do pressure stabilizer which is actually
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only available in the brush is not
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available anywhere else and this changes
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the thickness this helps eliminate shoe
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lacing and other issues but it brings
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its own set of issues one of them is
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that it taken when you lift up your
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stylus it sticks and it's sometimes like
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to trail off into little tails that you
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have no control over and it gets worse
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the more stroke stabilizer you have so
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you have to kind of babysit these two
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values or this value
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this value but it's worth dealing with
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to get really good line results
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additionally most tools will give you
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this little doodad over here and this
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little doodad over here is really a lot
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of control per brush more so than most
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programs allow but almost all the
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Japanese drawing programs all of this
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which means that this is on top of your
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Wacom digital settings digitizer
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settings for pressure on top of all that
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you could now hijack those values and
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make your brush behave hard or soft
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which is the same thing as before where
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hard meaning you know you get a small
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little tiny point that goes thicker and
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thicker with a lot of pressure or soft
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means it's always very fat tip brush and
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it's really neat that you can actually
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modify this per brush in a very simple
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easy spot so you can do that as well
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if you combine tweaking your tweaking
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your stylus Hardware your Wacom
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digitizer your settings and this you
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should be able to get your brush to
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behave exactly like you want but beware
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the thing is is each one of these stylus
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as you get aren't consistent so I
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actually have three stylus and I use
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them based on what I'm doing I have one
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I like to use for sketching because it's
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soft and I like one I like I like to use
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another one with the spring tip stylus
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nib because it has a lot more give and
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subtle pressure that allows for more
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refined inks so you have to decide you
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know additionally to verify that more
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than one brush behaves on white and to
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be honest if I only had one stylus and
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it behave one way and I didn't know any
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better I get really frustrated because
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the the stylus doesn't behave it like
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how I want to and I'd be blaming myself
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probably when I should just be blaming
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the inconsistent Hardware so what you do
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is you have at least two of these
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styluses and you test them and you get
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them to where you need them and pick the
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one you like using most and then you
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stand you verify where where it works
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for you but the reality is is the
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hardware and the software matches you
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you don't you shouldn't have to fit into
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it and that's that these steps and the
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the what I've mentioned so far in this
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video will help you kind of get to where
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you need to be so that you aren't
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fighting with your lines all the time