Weapons Caching

With gun-control hysteria running rampant throughout our White nations, it is now essential that the White Nationalist have a good understanding of how to successfully cache weapons for future use. The operative should consider caching all weapons which are not going to be put into immediate use. Weapons which have been used in an attack and pose a risk due to forensic evidence should also be either altered to change their characteristics (see Forensic Firearms Evidence) or cached.

Sections of 4", 6" or 8" SDR (Sanitary, Drain, Refuse) pipe will make excellent cache tubes. This type of tubing isn't cheap but is often left lying around at construction sites, ready to be "liberated". Be sure to use tubing with heavy wall thickness, at least 3/8". Cut the tubing to about 60" in length, this will allow enough room for all but the longest rifles. Remember that a cache tube may have to be reused for different weapons so don't size the tube to fit a specific weapon. Slip-on type end caps are the best choice for sealing up the tube, avoid threaded caps or plugs as they are more expensive and tend to get fouled up with dirt, making them difficult to reopen after recovery of the cache.

Using epoxy or PVC cement, permanently seal up one end with an end cap and test to be sure the seal is airtight. This is best done by placing the tube into water, sealed end down, and looking for leaks.

The next step is to prepare the weapons for caching. It is important to give the weapons a thorough coating with some type of thick, rust-preventative grease. There is some divergence of opinion on just what type to use but I would suggest that just about any type of thick grease will do the job if the cache is for a short to medium duration (1-7 years). Don't be tempted to apply the grease too thickly, a thin coating will do just fine and will be MUCH easier to remove later (anyone who's experienced trying to remove grease from a cached weapon knows what I mean!). Care must be taken with telescopic or laser sights not to get grease into the optics or electronics. Keep the lens caps on and wrap the scope or laser with plastic bags and tape before applying grease to the weapon. Don't remove the scope from the weapon because it may be impossible for you to re-zero it back in later. Batteries should be removed from lasers before caching. Avoid disassembling weapons if possible as some small parts may become lost in the process. Be sure that ammunition is not exposed to contact with grease or oil as they can penetrate into the cartridge and make the ammunition useless. Seal ammunition into airtight containers or "ziplock" bags to reduce deterioration.

Silica gel can be added to the tube, along with the weapons, just before sealing as a further rust-preventative measure. This step is not really necessary unless a very long-term cache is considered.

The tube is now sealed up with the other end cap. This can be done by either applying grease to the inside walls of the end cap and sliding it into place or by permanently cementing the end cap on. The cap should be cemented if a very long term (10-30 years) cache is being considered or a very hostile environment, such as underwater or in a swamp, is chosen for the cache.

You are now ready to chose a location to place the cache. A soil auger will be necessary if you intend to bury your cache tube underground. A manual soil auger is the best way to dig a vertical hole for the cache tube. Soil augers are used to dig fence post holes and are sold in 6"- 12" models. Soil augers are connected to a turning handle on top with a length of 3/4" pipe. The device will dig down to a depth of about four feet. At this depth, you will have to add a three foot extension to the pipe in order to dig down deep enough to bury a 60" tube one foot underground. Don't even consider burying your cache horizontally, it presents too large a target for metal detectors. When buried underground, a cache tube will be nearly impossible to remove as the soil settles in around it. For this reason be sure that the permanently sealed end of the tube is place down into the hole. In this way you can access, remove or replace weapons in the tube without removing it from the ground.

Be sure to place your cache at quite a distance from your residence or retreat. At 100 feet distance any searchers must cover 31,400 square feet in order to conduct a thorough search, not a difficult task with modern metal detectors. At 200 feet the area become 125,600 square feet, still not an insurmountable task with the latest equipment and a dedicated team. Move out to 1000 feet and the area becomes 3.14 million square feet… almost 71 acres!! If the operative was to scatter old nuts, bolts, nails and other pieces of scrap metal throughout this area, even a very dedicated team with unlimited time and monetary resources would soon tire of false readings and move on to an easier case. A great place to hide a cache is right in the middle of a little-used rural dirt road. This way you can get to your cache quickly and easily while still having it located a great distance from your residence. In this case be sure to watch for any upcoming roadwork in the area as some construction worker may turn up your cache.

Some other good locations for your cache include; in grain bins and silos, piles of coal, gravel, firewood or boards, under pig pens and anywhere else that presents great difficulty to searchers.

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